Tahiti diving, sharks, manta, lagoon,

Sea Science

The Story of Squid

Conservation

Shark Dives to Save Sharks

Dive Travel

Tahiti Blue Water Dreaming

Technical

Shooting with HID Light

Special

The Sardine Run - a photo documentary

If you like any images in this site, you can order prints for your private collection.
learn more ; For commercial usage, see STOCKS

NEW IMAGES

bora2 above DSC_0400

Editorials

For information for usage of any editorial package or new assignment contact: one@michaelaw.com

Blue Water Dreaming…Tahiti In-depth

Michael AW

Blue was never my colour; when I bought my first sport car, an Alfa Romeo Spyder, it was blue - a tree smashed on it the very next day. In Africa, I had nightmares of an elephant stomping over me; I was turned black and blue. When my true love left me, I was truly blue for a very long time. The thought of going to Tahiti alone was dreadfully blue. But blue takes on a whole new meaning in Tahiti; sheer incandescent wonder of blue waters in shades of aquamarine, turquoise, sapphire – a tapestry of blue found no where else in the world.

Perhaps it is the celebrated French impressionist Paul Gauguin that had best illustrated the Tahitian dreams with his paintings of exotic Polynesian maidens in seductive alluring poses. Early explorers Bougainville, Wallis, Vancouver and Cook "discovered" Tahiti and called the islands "A Garden of Eden". Captain Cook returned three times to study the transition of Venus, Captain Bligh came to collect seedlings from the breadfruit tree and insubordinate Fletcher Christian returned to the island that caused the mutiny on the Bounty. Officially known as French Polynesia, the expanse of over five million square kilometres of seas and all that are found in these depths are the allure for adventurous 21^st century explorers. The ambiance of the infinite blue water also makes the islands a dream destination for the romantic and honeymooners.

French Polynesia is strewn upon an expanse of five archipelagos; the Society Islands, the Austral, the Marquesas Islands, Tuamotus Atolls and the Gambier Islands, each with a distinctive appeal, offering an absolute natural bewilderment, tranquil beauty above and below sea level, complimented by striking Polynesian history, culture and the friendly, beautiful local people. The intensely blue seas are home to a huge density of corals and fishes. Encounters with manta rays, Eagle rays, Grey reef sharks Lemon sharks, hammerheads, Napoleon wrasse are amazingly predictable, making it one of the last remaining outpost for the bigger fishes.

The islands are themselves distinguished between; the high islands – the towering extinct volcanoes of Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Tahaa, Raiatea and the low islands of the coral atolls that make up the largest number of islands of Tahiti. The Society Archipelago with its mountainous islands is undoubtedly the most recent, geologically speaking. The "high islands", like Tahiti and Moorea, are more recent than the atolls. The barrier reef supports small islets (motu) and is cut through by channels originally created by the fresh water descending from the mountains where the coral could not grow. These islands have a larger continental shelf than the atolls and some species of fishes are more frequently encountered than in the other archipelagoes.

Encompassing 77 atolls, the Tuamotu Archipelago is geographically the oldest group of Tahitian Islands. Originally a chain of volcanic islands, the warm waters attracted the coral which structured the reefs around the islands. Eventually the weight of the islands on the moving continental plates caused them to disappear leaving only the coral reefs. The coral grows as fast as the atoll sinks. Generally an atoll has none to two channels (passes). Between the incoming and outgoing tides, water flow swiftly through the channels.

It is in these channels that indisputably the most exciting habitat for bountiful marine fauna in Polynesia. Drift diving through the channels offers the most exciting encounters with hundreds of sharks, rays and thousands of jacks and tuna. Of course it is always safer and more enjoyable to ride with incoming clean water from the outside the reef into the lagoon through these passes.

I once thought that there were neither hard corals nor critters in Tahiti. I was massively mistaken. I can appreciate that corals and reef fishes can easily be overshadowed by the boisterous population of sharks. Reefs inside lagoons and drop-offs along outside of barrier reefs are colonized by lush coral meadows populated with an wondrous array of ornamental reef fishes – butterflyfishes in varied shades of yellow, blue, orange surgeonfishes, Regal angelfishes to huge schools of Blue Lined snapper. Clean water and clear skys are elements that facilitate corals to grow at a furious rate to formations of massive proportions. The reefs are among the healthiest remaining in the world.

Each diving locality of French Polynesia has one or more particular traits that make it different from the rest ... Bora Bora is known for mantas, Manihi and Tikehau have the pristine lagoon and enormous schools of fish, Raiatea the wrecks and deep lagoon, Rangiroa and Fakarava the channel dives, while Moorea have their shark feed dives. Though shark feeding has become a known activity in French Polynesia, in Moorea, the dive operations have over the years got it down to a fine art, developing the activity to an extreme - sharks are fed on nearly every dive and at most dive sites. A small round canister of fish meat is nearly always part of the leading divemaster’s standard scuba equipment. I was told the founder of Bathy's Club, Bernard Begliomini began experimenting with shark feeding behaviour as far back as 1985, and subsequently passed the knowledge down to the current breed of diving operators.

Underwater, visibility often extends beyond 30 metres in the outside reefs, while in the shallow lagoons 20 metres is adequate to enjoy the bright colourful reef fishes in stupendous abundance. As the demand for shark fin soup in Asia continues, sharks are vanishing faster than the speed of light in most of the world’s oceans, the dive sites in Tahiti are some of the few places remaining where we can still find them in respectable numbers…sometime as abundant as mosquitoes in an Amazon swamp. Within the channels of Rangiroa and Fakarava, hundreds of Grey reef whalers are seen during the in-coming tide.

The Great Hammerheads and Oceanic White-tips, and Tiger sharks are often seen on the outside reefs, especially during the early morning hours. Dolphin pods are also common at all locations, although often heard or seen in the distance, the lucky divers will get to swim alongside the gregarious individual underwater. On my recent trip I had them overhead with a school of 50 odd eagle rays just at the edge of visibility.

Manta Rays are also commonly found at most destinations, but possibly the most remarkable are the resident population at Bora Bora. While several Silvertips are predictably found just outside the Avatoru Pass at Rangiroa along with uncountable numbers of Big-eyed jacks, over 50 Grey Reefs are also found among thousands of Big-eyed jacks at Muri Muri, a dive site on the outer realm of Bora Bora. With such varied diversity of sharks, rays, and fish in blue water, Tahiti is the ultimate destination for shark lovers.

For those who heed the call of blue water dreaming, Tahiti is more than a destination...beyond a holiday experience...it is a state of mind, a dream...an opportunity of a lifetime to live the legend of the enchanting South Seas. Landlubbers will find the verdant tropical foliage, waterfalls, white beaches, sparkling blue lagoons revitalizing for the soul; prime locale for honeymooners to bask in a romantic interlude between gorging at bare chest tattooed men stamping out to circles of flame, and gorgeous female dancers resonate to every beat, pulsating hips and toes and fingers to the clatter of gongs and drums.

For the nature lover, it is the rich fauna, the big fishes found in surprising abundance, diving in an azure sea in thousand shades of blue filled with sharks, napoleon wrasse, mantas, and eagle rays. For me of greater significance, was the oversized Orange-fin clownfish (Amphiprion chrysopterus) at Bora Bora that impressed me…yes much more than a squadron of 100 or so sharks at Fakarva.

Best Sites - In-depth

Tahiti

Diving the main island of French Polynesia, Tahiti is like diving Bali in Indonesia; it provides a sampler of the best dive sites in the country. As Tahiti is the gateway for all international flights, it is convenient to spend a few days diving off the main island. The fauna are equally spectacular; sharks, rays, schools of surgeonfishes, hoards of butterflyfishes, nudibranchs and it is also possible to see anglerfishes and leaf fishes too. The dive sites are varied from wrecks, lush coral gardens, oceanic walls and caverns are all part of the sampler.

Best sites

The HYDROPLANE & The SCHOONER

For wreck enthusiasts this dive is a must; there are not many places in the world where you can see a hydroplane and a schooner underwater in the one dive. Situated in the lagoon, it is an easy dive starting from 6 to 25 metres. Both the plane and schooner lie on a sandy bed, resting upright. Water visibility averages about 15 metres. It is possible to penetrate the cockpit and hull of the plane either through a door located on the left hand side of the fuselage or through the front of the cockpit.

THE ABYSS

For the nitrogen addict, the Abyss is not to be missed; an outer reef dive ranging from 30 to 50 metres; this is a big blue dive for the experienced – expect to see the pelagics – sharks to skipjack tuna, the Mahi Mahi – dolphin fish and if you must the ‘Rose’ garden of lettuce corals found at 40 to 60 metres.

Tahiti Peninsula

The peninsula is about one hour drive south of Papeete and it is the only place in French Polynesia where you can dive along sheer walls rich with gorgonian fans from shallow to 35 metre depth. The best diving is of course on the outer reefs.

Best Sites

Gorgoneas

Perhaps this is the most colourful reef in French Polynesia; rich with yellow and red Gorgonians, whip corals and soft corals. Starting at a depth of 15 metres, descend along a steep wall with many overhangs and crevices to explore. Expect to see a good population of sharks, eels, tunas, big wrasses and huge density of ornamental reef fishes. Shark feeds are often conducted on the reef flat.

The Marado

This is the ultimate wall dive; a sheer wall falls from 3 to 60/70 metres, then onto infinity. Of course according to your experience, you can choose your depth and fancy. There are swims through chimneys covered with yellow and red fan corals. Expect to see eels, White tip sharks, a school of Dorado, sting rays and the passing of tunas and sailfish in the blue. A good site for gobies, blennies, leaf fishes, anglerfish and irresistible Orange-fin anemonefish as well.

Moorea

Moorea is like Lombok to Bali, the sister island to Tahiti; a very long 7 minute flight (30 minutes hi-speed ferry-boat ) from Papeete, the island is formed by the crater of an old volcano, surrounded by coral reefs, encompassing a sapphire blue lagoon. Rated by Condé Nast Traveler as the most beautiful island in the world, it seems to be an island lost in time, verdant hills and jungle yet the island boasts lavish resorts supported with all modern amenities and luxuries.

But its true beauty is definitely underwater; clear blue water, an abundant shark population that will meet up with you face to face; Black tip, grey reef, white tip but also nurse sharks, lemon sharks and occasionally the big guy - Oceanic White tips on the outside reef. But sharks are not the only great encounters; sting rays and eagle rays, Napoleon wrasses, huge moray eels, schools of snappers, trigger, parrot fishes, trevalley, barracudas, tunas, turtles, scorpion and lion fishes, clownfishes in prolific numbers are found on most of the dive sites.

Best Sites

TIKI point

Just outside the lagoon, Tiki is the most exciting shark feed dive in Moorea. Feeders’ don chain mill glove to hand feed the sharks at 20 metres. Expect to see several Black tips, Gray Reefs and a few respectable three metre sized Lemon sharks. Shark action is swift and intense. This is the most productive site for the photographer trying to shoot close-up feeding action of sharks.

Opunohu Canyons

Depth range from 15 to 30 metres, the canyon between the ridges is another great site for shark feed dives; divers are positioned alongside the ridge, the feeder hand-feeding the sharks in the centre stage. Black tip sharks turn up in a pack of 50, along with sea turtles and a couple of over-sized Lemon sharks.

Tahaa & Raitea

Located 192 kilometres northwest of Papeete, Raiatea and Tahaa is largely overshadowed by the popularity of Bora Bora and Moorea. However if you are seeking a place without the tourist bustle, Tahaa and Raitea are a great option. Raitea is 40 minutes flight from Papeete and Tahaa is a further eight minutes boat trip from Raitea. Raitea, the second largest Island in all of French Polynesia, is just slightly smaller than Tahiti itself, so it is also a good option for top side eco-adventures. Again the great dives are through the channels and on the outside reefs where the oases of coral meadows are populated by diverse coral species and teeming with uncountable reef fishes.

Best Sites

Miri Miri's Pass

This site is on the western coast depth range from surface to 30 metres. Drift through black, purple and yellow coral walls to see eagle rays, Grey reef sharks, a school of barracudas, turtles, giant wrasses and a big school of jacks.

The Norsby Wreck

Located only ten metres away from the Hawaiki Nui Hotel, the wreck is an excellent dive from the surface to 29 metres. The Norsby is a Danish three masted vessel which sunk on August the 22^nd, 1900. Amazingly the hull and most of the rigging are still in good condition (two masts are still in place). Nudibranchs galore – 23 species have been documented, lush black coral growth and good variety of shell fish. Do not miss this dive.

Ceran's Pass - The Peaks
In the middle of the channel, two peaks rise to 32 metres, a hangout for jacks, sharks and barracudas; exhilarating especially in current when feeding melees are frequent.

BORA BORA

Bora Bora evokes the vision of a fantasy island; nostalgic an epitome of a South Seas paradise. In the words of novelist James A. Michener, Bora Bora lagoon is "so stunning, that there are really no adequate words to describe it.” Volcanic in origin, Bora Bora's rugged main island, and a few smaller islands, are almost completely surrounded by coral reefs. Mount Otemanu, a natural sculpture that towers majestically over the island of intense emerald green and aquamarine lagoon is a breathtaking sight to behold, a signature image for Tahiti and her islands. The romantic proclaim it as the most beautiful lagoon on earth.

Bora Bora is the northernmost island in the group of Leeward Islands, connected by several flights each day, 45 minutes from Papeete. Its ancient name of Vava'u suggests that the original inhabitants of this seven-million-year-old island arrived from Tonga. Interestingly, in the local Tahitian language there is no "B," so its actual name is then Pora Pora, meaning "first born." Aptly it was the first international tourist destination of French Polynesia. For divers, mantas are Bora Bora’s principal attraction. Anau, the manta sanctuary in Bora Bora was brought to international attention at Antibes and Celebrate the Sea by Moeava Rosemount, a French videographer who has captured possibly some of the best manta mating footage anywhere - all captured in the lagoon.

Best Sites

MURI MURI

Outside reefs from 10 to 60 metres; lush coral meadow, with resident of 50 or so grey reef sharks, turtles, schools of barracuda, big school of tuna, trevalley (jacks) and whales during the migrating season (Aug - Nov).

TAPU

The outside reef near the main channel is one of the best dive sites in French Polynesia; from 10 to 35 metres, healthy population of Lemon sharks, black-tipped sharks, turtles, giant Napoleon wrasse, tuna, jack fish and moray eels are the local residents.

TEAVANUI PASS

In the only navigable pass into the Bora Bora Lagoon from the outside reef, it acts like a moving highway where the fish travel in and out of the channel; between depth of 12 to 35 metres, sharks, tunas, and flock of 50 eagle rays are the predictable highlights.

MANIHI

Located in the Tuamoto archipelago, Manihi, is better known for its black pearls, than as a diving destination. The water in this atoll is nutrient rich and clean offering excellent diving conditions unique to these islands. The dive sites adorned with impressive seascapes are easily reached from the island resort and guest house. From Papeete, flight is about 1 hour and 15 minuted, or 20 minutes from Rangiroa.

Best Sites

TAIRAPA PASS

As in all atoll diving, the best sites are always the drift through the channel. Unlike Rangiroa the currents in this pass are moderate, good visibility and somewhat protected from the wind and waves make this dive accessible for both experienced and beginner divers. Expect to see manta, eagles rays, Gray reef and Blacktip sharks.

Le Circus

Situated just between the pass and the lagoon, populated by large Napoleon wrass and Black-tip sharks, it is the hang out of eagle rays and manta rays. Solitary or in groups the mantas are often sighted here feeding in passing current.

The Crossing & Droff [sp????] off

The wall at the outer edge of the channel falls from three to 1500 metres. Start the dive along a wall, cross the channel to about 30m. The site is heavily populated with Napoleon wrasse, giant jackfish, impressive schools of snappers, barracudas and blue water denizen such as Yellow fin tuna and Bonita. During the month of July, this is the site for a congregation of marbled grouper who unite for the mating season; one of the most spectacular underwater events in Polynesia.

Rangiroa

About 55 minutes flight from the main island of Tahiti is Rangiroa, one of the largest atolls in the world. Comprised of a low lying string of coral reefs which encircle a 76 kilometres long by 24 kilometre wide turquoise colored lagoon. Rangiroa is the signature destination for shark diving in the Southern Pacific. The two channels or ‘passes’ in the northern end of the atoll near the villages of Avatoru and Tiputa are renowned for their predictability for seeing sharks in double to triple digit numbers. Between the tides, colossal amounts of water communicate between the ocean and the lagoon through the Avatoru and Tiputa channels.

Following the tides are massive school of jacks, tuna, barracuda, eagle rays, turtles, dolphins and of course the sharks. On the ocean side, the atoll plummets precipitously to beyond 1200 metres. This is the habitat of the big, bold and hungry sharks. Whether you are diving the deep blue outer reef, the lagoon or drifting through the channels, Rangiroa promises lots of surprises: mantas, humpack whales between July and August, Leopard rays, napoleons wrasse, sea turtles, barracudas, tunas and seeing dolphins underwater are also frequent experience.

Commonly sighted sharks in Rangiroa: -

Grey sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhyncos)
Silky sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis).
Silvertip sharks (Carcharhinus albimarginatus).
Whitetip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus).
Blacktip reef sharks (Carcharhinus melanoptérus).
Milk sharks (Carcharhinus lumbatus).
Sicklefin lemon shark (Negaprian acutidens).
Requin nourrice (Nebrius concolor).
Great hammerhead shark (Sphyrna mokarran), December to March.
Tiger shark (Galeocerdo cuvier), rare.

Fakarava

Fakarava – UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: Fakarava, Aratika, Kauehi, Niau, Toau, Raraka and Taiaro, is classified by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve for special features for its columns of water in the lagoon and ocean being of great importance and diversity of its fauna and flora, including the kingfisher, the Tuamotu palm tree and its lagoon crustaceans of mantis-shrimps.

Fakarava is known to the intrepid divers as the new Rangiroa, is also part of the Tuamotus archipelago about one hour flight from Papeete. With a comparable shark population it is still newly or rather under developed, there are far fewer divers here compared to Rangiroa. This atoll is constituted of an immense barrier of coral reefs confining a lagoon 60 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide. Situated 450 kilometres from Papeete, it is connected to the ocean by two opposing channels. North channel “Garuae” is the largest in Polynésia (1600 metres wide) which inspired the name of the diving center: te ava nui (The infinite channel). The south channel "Tumakohua" is only 200 metres wide.

Best Sites

Te Ava nui:
This is the reef dive outside the channel, dive from 15 to 30 metres; beautiful seascapes with predictable sightings of grey, Silky and hammerhead sharks, dolphins, Napoleon wrasse, and myriad reef fishes.

Garuae Pass:
Part of the north channel, this dive is much like the Tiputa channel of Rangiroa. An exhilarating dive, drifting in three to four knots current between 15 to 35 metres depth, sightings of silvertip sharks, grey sharks, hammerheads, white tips, and schooling fishes by the thousands. Healthy water conditions in the pass have provided for spectacular staghorn corals growth. Many well traveled divers reckoned the channel is better than Rangiroa.

Tumakohua Pass:
Personally I like the southern pass better than the north; because the channel is much narrower, the sharks are more concentrated. Often you will drift through column of two to three different schools of fishes. Begin the dive on the outside of the reef, drift into the pass, rise through a ridge at 13 metres and fall back to 28 metres to find hundreds of Grey and white tip sharks hanging in the blue and on the sand. Finish the dive in lagoon where you will find school of snappers and Napoleon wrasse that comes right up to the surface.

TIKEHAU

During one of his expeditions, Jacques-Yves COUSTEAU declared Tikehau the richest atoll on the face of the earth. A brave statement but hardly surprising from an insular point of view. Coral and fish scientists may differ, but biological surveys of Tikehau lagoon have found it to be richest in fish species of the lower atolls in French Polynesia.

Tikehau island is 20 minutes away from Rangiroa by plane, and about 50 minutes from Papeete. The atoll is somewhat of an untamed charm, encircling a lagoon 26 kilometres, and opens up to the ocean through the Tuheiava channel. Likewise the best diving is near the channel predictable encounters with sharks, pelagics, dolphins and schooling fishes.

Best Sites

La passe Tuheiava :

One of the few pass where it is possible to start a dive in the middle of the channel on either an in-coming or out-going tide. In the open water, schools of barracuda, sea pike, big-eyed and threadfin jackfish, as well as Sand emperors are the locals while manta rays are casual encounters. White tip sharks and rays are found within caverns and overhangs. Napoleon wrasse are also found further south, towards the end of the dive the reef wall is profuse with an explosion of multi-coloured corals.

Shark Hole

A site for the experienced diver; a vertical crack in the reef begins at 20 metres. A dozen or so grey reef sharks can be seen arriving to look at the newcomers, and as you glide into the opening in the reef, the show is amazing! Enter the maze of swim throughs and caverns occupied by an uncountable number of red, yellow and blue lined snappers, and squirrelfishes. At about 50 metres an arch connects the two sides of the gorge; an imposing architectural edifice fashioned by nature. Monument Valley underwater. Expect to see rays, dozens of Gray reef sharks, napoleon and of course clownfishes in crystal blue water.

Mamaa

Shaped like an amphitheatre, the crescent shaped reef floor inside the lagoon at 18 metres is one of the fishiest sites in French Polynesia; somehow one you will feel that you are diving in an aquarium. Schools of yellow snappers, big-eyed squirrelfish as well as large red snappers are all part of the crowd. Shark feed maybe conducting to bring in the Black-tip sharks, moray eels and Napoleon wrasse.

Destination Checks

How to Get there:

From Australia; connect via Sydney – direct flight to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui – about 7 hours http://www.airtahitinui.com

From Asia, connect via Sydney or Auckland on Air Tahiti Nui –highly recommended

Money Matters:
Currency: Polynesian franc: ( 1 USD= 90 CFP, may vary)
Credit card widely accepted: Visa, Eurocard, Mastercard, AMEX),

Diving Insurance: DAN highly recommended.

Air temperature: average 24 C in winter and 29C in summer:

Water temperature: average 26C in winter and 28 C in summer

VISA: Australian no visa required; other passport check with your nearest French Consulate or Tahiti Tourisme.

Health : No Vaccinations are required at this time to enter French Polynesia. Bring plenty of sun cream and insect repellent if you staying at a family pension/guest house.

Electricity: 240v European 2 round pins power point

Official web site: www.tahiti-tourisme.com

In Australia contact:

Recommend Resorts / Diving Operators

Tahiti

Le Meridien - www.lemeridien.com

Tahiti Intercontinental - http://tahiti.intercontinental.com

Recommended operators: www.aquatica-dive.com; www.itidiving.pf

Bora Bora

Le Meridien - www.lemeridien.com

Mai Tai Dreams - www.hotelmaitai.com

Recommended operators: www.nemodivebora.com; www.boradive.com