Sharks Dives to Save Sharks

text and pictures by Michael AW

 Sharks are fast vanishing from the world ocean. Shark fins are tasteless with little nutritionally value but they are consumed in astronomical quantity by the Chinese in Singapore, Hong Kong, China, Malaysia and Thailand. Though on the decline because there aren’t many sharks left in Asia, the port of Makassar / Ujung Padang, export nearly one million-tons of dried shark fins to capital cities in South East Asia each year.  Traditionally in Chinese culture, shark fin soup is consumed as one of 10 courses during Chinese New Year, weddings, reunion dinners or just about at any excuse for celebration.  Cooked with chicken stock and crabmeat, strands of fins are only scantily found in a bowl of soup enough for 10 people. With the economic boom in the mid-eighties, shark fin fillets began to be consumed as an indication of wealth, a sign of success in the Asian scene.  The more expensive the better – it is not uncommon for one to pay between US$25 - US$200 for a small chunk of braised fins.  This was bad news for sharks - gourmet shark fin restaurants mushroomed in Singapore, Hong Kong, Taipei, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. 

 The demand made shark fins an extremely lucrative business. There are now shark fins associations or rather shark fins mafia in Hong Kong, Thailand, SIngapore threatening the survival of sharks in Asia and around the world.  The biology of sharks makes them highly vulnerable to extinction. Slow growth, late maturity, long life, and a low reproductive potential characterize their life history.  Such biology makes it difficult to sustain any shark fishery and limits their capacity to recover from overexploitation.  There is now serious possibility that more than 100 species of shark will eventually face extinction because of continued demand for their fins.  From the basking shark to the black-tip shark, the hunt revolves round just one part of the whole creature.  Entrepreneurs invest in long line vessels to trawl for sharks.  Since there’re no value in shark’s meat, captured animals are immediately stripped of dorsal, pectoral, anal and tailfins, then thrown back into the sea alive.  It would be just like chopping the legs off a cow and then throwing it back into the field to die.

 Divers are the best ambassador for sharks – for those of us that have encountered them in the wild, we quickly learnt that these majestic fish are really impressive animals like that of lion, tigers and gorillas. We viewed these animals in awe for their power and elegance.  I have known many people that have once ate shark fins but have changed their attitude and behavior upon observing sharks at close quarter. They also go away sharing their experience with friends and family. They become ambassadors and educators who speak out on behalf on sharks. We need to create a greater community of people and businesses to help preserve the remaining shark population in the wild.

 In the following pages, we are promoting some of the great shark dive destinations – these are the last strong hold for sharks, where they are still predictably found in respectable number. You can help by diving these sites – bring along a few friends to share the experience. By doing just that you are encouraging the operators to protect the sharks for their business. You will also showing the tourism ministry of the destination the economic value of preserving these fast vanishing resources.  Sure at some of these places, sharks are chum to the location by offering of food. Don’t be fool by the ignorant that tell you that feeding will cause a change of behavior making the animal totally dependent on free hand outs. Give more credits to sharks; they been around for 400 million years, where modern man a mere 3000 years or so. If your mum and dad stop feeding you, it is quite naturally for you to go hunt for the next own meal…it is just pure animal instinct. Well if indeed feeding causes a change behavior, it is still better than no behavior when there are no more sharks in the ocean. So make your next underwater sojourn a shark dive destination; just by doing that, you are already contributing to preservation to one of the most enigmatic and important animal in our ocean.

Shark Reef – Beqa Lagoon, Fiji

Voted by Ron and Valerie Taylor as the best shark dive in the world, Shark Reef just off Pacific Harbour run exclusively by Beqa Adventure Diver.

 It is the only place in the world where eight species of sharks are found in one place and it is not uncommon to find up to 50 Bull shark (Carcharhinus leucas) in a single dive.  Considered to be the most dangerous shark in the world, even surpassing the Great White Shark, Bull sharks have a bad reputation. Possessing broad, serrated triangular upper teeth and very powerful jaws, bull sharks are known to eat almost anything. Position yourself next to one of the feeders and wait for one of these broad shoulder sharks to appear right up close and personal. Seeing one of these fearsome but magnificent animals opening their jaws for a fish barely a foot away is like  the opening scene from ‘JAWS’ in real time, a surrealistic heart pumping experience that will be forever embedded in your mind. And if you are really lucky, Tiger sharks are also known to turn up to feed. I was incredibly lucky. On my first trip to Shark Reef for four days in 2005, the Tiger sharks turned up for three. Don’t miss this incredible experience.

Rating: 10

http://www.fiji-sharks.com;  *Shark feed dive

Darwin & Wolf, Galapagos

Galapagos is renowned as the best wildlife destination in the worlds for fish dives, big animals and endemic animals. However, it is the large concentration of Hammerheads at the islands of Darwin and Wolf that the adventurous divers come to see.  Darwin and Wolf are the northernmost islands of the  archipelago, about 13 hours away by live-aboard vessels departing from Baltra the entry point to the  Galapagos. The only tourists that visit these islands are divers because this unique and fragile environment is closed to all land visits.

 Experienced divers agree Wolf & Darwin offer some of the world’s best diving. At Darwin’s Northern Arch, the northern most point of the two Islands, schools of hammerhead sharks and groups of bottle nose dolphins often swim in clear view of divers. Albeit the bigger sea but once underwater, all the diver needs to do is to stay stationary on the rocky ledge to wait for the sharks and fish to drift past. Experienced divers agree Wolf & Darwin offer some of the world’s best diving. At Wolf, the pinnacle, the reef and the south islet channel offer three different dive sites. The two islands are perhaps the most consistent place in the world to see hundreds of hammerhead sharks, containing also many warm water fish species found nowhere else in the islands.

 The sheer abundance of life is amazing. On most dives one will see several hundred large marine animals - sea lions, turtles, hammerhead sharks, white tip sharks, manta rays, Galapagos sharks, and huge schools of eagle and/or golden rays, sometimes numbering between 50 - 100 individuals. There is also the possibility of seeing whales, whale sharks, between dives it is possible to snorkel with pod of resident dolphins. Darwin and Wolf are the two best dive sites in the world.

 How to get there:

From your own country connect flight to Quito

Special expeditions: www.michaelaw.com

http://www.peterhughes.com/phsky/skymain.htm

 Rating: 9

 Maaya Thila – Ari Atoll Maldives

Maaya Thila may be last few places left in the Maldives remaining for shark action. Slated as a marine protected site, in terms of fish life, the sheer abundance Maaya Thiala is incredible.  The thila is about 80 meters in diameter and can be easily circumnavigated in one dive; that is if you can resist other distractions.  The top of the reef starts at six meters, sloping to 12m, before dropping to beyond 30m.  Caves, overhangs and ledges are found all along the reef wall. Though solidly built Grey Reef sharks are common, it is the number of White-tip sharks that are impressive.  They are everywhere.  Millions of anchovies disperse and regroup to form a variation of shapes stealing the show from the Grey sharks and their companions, the Rainbow Runners.  While schools of Snappers and Batfish hover beneath coral trees, lone Great Barracudas play havoc with the fusiliers. Blue-faced angelfish, Clown triggerfish, Blue triggerfish, Dog-tooth tuna, Hawksbill turtles, jacks, moray eels, stonefish, and Anglerfish are all part of the ensemble that make this reef to be one of the greatest in the Maldives.

 Because of the quality and density of this ecosystem, the axioms of life that play each night on the reef are footage nature filmmakers will die for.  After dark, predators swing into hunting mode.  Sharks seem to zoom in from every direction.  Their sense of urgency and frantic search for prey are felt in wave after wave of electrifying melee.  Even the bold divers are on guard. Moray eels are seen leaving their holes to search for unsuspecting scorpionfish.  Octopuses are sighted in ambush position for a shellfish in passing.  Marble Rays appear out of the dark to sweep on sand patches for shellfishes, bloating up occasionally when they land on an ill- fated prey.  Maaya Thila gained world wide recognition as it was selected to be the location for the world’s first  24-hour documentation for a National Geographic feature documentary, live web broadcast and commemorative book in 1999.

 How to get there: best to go with a live-aboard boat and do both day and night dive.

MV Sea Queen www.scubascuba.com

MV Giulia – www.michaelaw.com

Killibob Knob – Fathers Reef PNG

Killlibob Knob, a deep water reef is primarily visited as a shark dive site located 15 miles south west of Lolabau Island. The reef consists of three connected coral outcrops with the shallowest at 10m, then 15m ft., then 25m. Moray eels, porcelain crabs, tuna, barracuda and trevally jacks are common. The reef features prolific hard corals and leather corals. However it is the sharks here that are highly conspicuous and abundant. Blacktip reef sharks, Silvertip, Whitetip and the Grey Reef Whalers as well. From the moment the boat moors, as if in response to a dinner bell, the sharks in respectable number turn up beneath the boat.

 I have dived this side with Captain Alan Raabe several times since 1994; I have never been disappointed. Each time a controlled feed was staged, and each time the Silvertips and Whitetips moved in to feed along side hundreds of reef fishes.  Scallop hammerheads may also be encountered here but that is when you have to venture beyond 45m.

 How to get there: MV Febrina and MV Star Dancer

http://www.peterhughes.com/phstar/starmain.htm

http://www.febrina.com

Rating: 8

*Shark feed dive

 Blue Corner – Palau

SharksSharks are  prolific in Palau, and as such, Shark Week is staged each year in late March and hosted by David Doubiet, National Geographic Explorer in Residence. The best site in Palau for shark dives is undoubtedly the most famous - Blue Corner where sharks patrol the wall and the corner and glide in very close to the divers.  

Blue Corner is world famous.  Situated off edge of Ngemelis Island, the site is the apex of adrenaline diving or sensory overload in local terminology.  Abundant in shark action, the site teems not just with large school of Moorish Idols, but Napoleon wrasse, groupers, barracudas, White-tip sharks, turtles, moral eels, jacks, mantas and huge marble rays.  Especially when the current is running, the action seems endless and electrifying.  The site is a reef flat that starts at about 12m over a huge area, jutting out sharply into the sea before dropping quickly to form a wall.  Gorgonian fans and plate corals are also prolific.

Rating: 7

 Other Top Shark Dive sites in Palau

Peleliu Cut - Bull Sharks are regulars there and numerous Gray reef

Ulong Channel- Dozens of Gray refs patrol the entrance to the Channel

Siaes Corner- Gray Reefs, White tips

New Drop Off- Gray Reefs, White tips 6. Peleliu Express Way- Often we see Silver Tips, Many Gray Reefs

Ngerchong Wall- The best shark dive on the east part of Palau , dozens of Gray reef  (October-November it is a nursery for baby Gray Reefs, big schools of juveniles).

Shark City- Best place in Palau to see Giant Hammerheads

Silver tip point- Northern part of Palau. Silvertips are common and very curious.

 www.oceanhunter.com

Rangiroa – French Polynesia

Rangiroa is often described as the "shark diving capital of the Pacific" - there are few places in the world where diving with at least four species of sharks is guaranteed and in big numbers and most impressively, feeding them is not necessary for a close encounter.  Between the tides, colossal amounts of water communicate between the ocean and Rangiroa lagoon through the Avatoru and Tiputa channels. On the ocean side of the channel, the ocean plummets precipitously to beyond 1200m Following the tides are hordes of jacks, tuna, barracuda, manta rays and eagle rays, turtles, dolphins and of course the sharks, lots of sharks. 

 Grey reef whalers are surely seen in big numbers … from 50 to a couple of hundred though the highest concentrations are often below you 40m.  Other shark species are seen at other times of the year notably Hammerheads in the southern summer months, and the occasional Tiger feeding in the early morning. Dolphins are also common in the pass, although often heard or seen in the distance, and often the lucky divers will get to swim alongside the gregarious individual underwater.  Manta Rays were seen on several dives when the current was running out of the lagoon, but probably the most remarkable though not particularly close underwater encounter at Tiputa are often the Blue sail Marlin. The other channel is often known as Avatoru Pass.  Large Silvertips are predictably found just outside the channel along with uncountable numbers of Big-eyed jacks, silver fish, and blacktips, to mention a few.

The seaward side of Rangiroa is home to the Oceanic Whiteptip, Silky and Great Hammerheads; the chance of seeing them here is the best compared to elsewhere in the world. Most often within seconds of entering the water, Great Hammerheads are seen emerging from the abyss followed most often by a few oceanic Silky sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis). Rangiroa is without a doubt, the last stronghold of shark diving in the world.

Rating: 10 

How to get there: Connect to Rangiroa via Papeete – it is most economical to go with a packge:

  BLUE DOLPHINS DIVING CENTER
Hotel Kia Ora Rangiroa, RANGIROA
E-mail : bluedolphins@mail.pf  Managers: Junko Kida & Pascal Jogut

*Shark feed dive

 RAI MANTA CLUB
Avatoru, Rangiroa, FRENCH POLYNESIA
E-mail: raiemantaclub@mail.pf  Manager: Ives Lefevre 

*Shark feed dive

 Also check out:

http://www.tahiti-tourisme.com/

Jonica@ParamorProductions.com.au

Home of the Shark Feeders  - Moorea,  French Polynesia
Whilst Rangiroa is the shark capital of the Pacific, Moorea is the home of the shark feeders. Located in the middle of the South Pacific, Moorea is Tahiti's heart-shaped sister island, with a special trait - hand-fed shark and stingray dives. In Moorea, the dive operations have over the years got it down to a fine art, developing the activity to an extreme - sharks are teased or fed nearly on every dive and at most dive sites and we are talking of up to 50 or more sharks at any one feeding station!

A small round canister of fish meat is nearly always part of the leading divemaster’s standard scuba equipment. I was told the founder of Bathy's Club at the Beach Continental, Bernard Begliomini began experimenting with shark feeding behavior as far back as 1985, and subsequently passed the knowledge down to the current breed of diving operators.  At Tiki Point, Opunohu’s Canyon and Wall, Blacktip sharks swarm like bees to greet divers the minute the boat arrives. A single divemaster carries fresh or frozen fish in a bag and hands it out to hungry sharks. Lemon sharks, whitetips, blacktips and abundant schools of bluestripe snappers all compete for the food.

Shark feeds are conducted only by the leading dive master who dons a single chain-mail glove and carries with him a goody bag of tuna’s carcasses. Once his group of divers are comfortably settled, the feeder starts by throwing small pieces of meat into the water to excite the smaller fishes. The initial pandemonium sends a strong signal through the water column. In response, the sharks seemingly accustomed to this sequence generally patrol back and forth calmly, though closer to the feeder in anticipation of the bigger chunks.

Effectively an experienced feeder can increase or decrease the action by controlling the amount fish he releases to the sharks. If the sharks appear to be sluggish, he will draws a large carcass from the goody bag, to stir up the reef fishes, and the sharks seem to follow the cue and rush in to compete with the Rainbow Runners, Jacks and Titan Triggerfish. In a blink, the feeder will seemingly vanish into a cloud of fish. Sharks home in like lighting bolts to hit on the meat, striking the mayhem of smaller fishes in deadly ferocity. 

Every once a while, a shark will get away with a big carcass, a wild melee ensues. Other sharks will chase and try to snatch the goodie from the getaway, pursued by hordes of Rainbow runners, snappers and Bannerfish – the water boils with fish, scales, meat and flashing teeth – an explosion of silvery flashes at lighting speed.  Whilst it may be controversial, the experience of seeing sharks at close range increases the ordinary person admiration of these magnificent animals of our ocean. 

Rating: 8

 How to get there: Connect to Moorea from Papeete by ferry or flight.   

BATHY'S CLUB - Moorea, FRENCH POLYNESIA
E-mail: bathys@mail.pf  Manager: Juan Pedro Duran Lopez

*Shark feed dive

 MOOREA FUN DIVE - Moorea, FRENCH POLYNESIA
E-mail: fundive@mail.pf  Managers:Pascale Souquieres & Boumediene Boucif

Also check out:

http://www.tahiti-tourisme.com/

Jonica@ParamorProductions.com.au

Scuba Zoo - Great Barrier Reef

This site is the shark feeding site of MV Spoilsport, located on the western side of South Boomerang Reef, 230km from Townsville. With average visibility of 40m and the feeding platform at 12m, this site is ideal for the first timer participating in a shark feed dive. Participants may choose either to watch the show from inside a purpose built cage big enough to accommodate 20 or so divers.  Over a dozen Whitetip Reef Sharks, Grey Reef Sharks and Silvertip Reef Sharks often gather for the feed. The fish are stored in a bucket, it lid is opened by remote control. The viewing port from the cage offers excellent photo opportunity of the sharks rushing in to devour their food. Once the food is consumed, the sharks will leave the vicinity, the careful divers may choose to swim safely back to the boat. This is an exhilarating dive for the first timer.

 Rating 7

*Shark feed dive

Osprey Reef – Great Barrier Reef

Osprey Reef lies in the Coral Sea nearly 160 km to the ENE of Lizard Island.  This Coral Sea reef is 21 kilometres long and boasts 30 metres plus visibility and 1000 metre vertical walls therefore many divers consider this reef to be the ultimate of Great Barrier Reef diving adventure. Not only can the largest and most spectacularly coloured soft corals in the world be found here, the large reef system has a very healthy shark population and North Horn, a reef shelf in depth between 12m to 45m is world famous for its shark action. Often divers will descend into a group of five to six resident White-tip Reef Sharks and several Grey Reef Sharks. In deeper water Silvertip Sharks are often found among coral outcrops and if one is moderately lucky oceanic White-tip sharks, Great Hammerheads, thresher and the odd lone Tiger Shark are a probable treat. North Horn is also the site where most live-aboards conduct their shark feed. However even without the free hand out, the shark interaction is already exceptionally good. One of the most significant features of this reef is the population of Hammerhead Sharks.  In winter and spring large schools of Hammerheads are predictably seen off the wall. Besides the sharks, the shelf is also home to large friendly Potato cod, school of trevallies and barracudas and Eagle Rays and Manta Rays are also often seen. Of course when you are bored with the big fish action, there’s always the giant cactus sized soft corals found in deeper water.  

Rating: 8

www.takadive.com

www.spiritoffreedom.com.au

*Shark feed dive

 Ningaloo Reef – Capital of Whale Shark, Exmouth, Western Australia

A big shark, a very big shark… the biggest fish in the sea, the whale shark (Rhinicodon typus), known by a common name based entirely upon its size is one of the most exciting marine life interaction experience in the world. The best place to swim side by side with them is from Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Declared as a marine park, the 260kms long reef system is just about one-tenth the length of the Great Barrier Reef, but is globally renown for the congregation of whale sharks between the months of March and June. Exmouth, the gateway to Ningaloo, 1200 km from Perth, is the most isolated metropolis on earth, a township made famous by the whale sharks.

 Each year, cinematographers, marine photographers and big wildlife lovers come from all over the world for the experience of a lifetime.  From the UK, Japan, Canada, Germany and USA they fly or drive into Exmouth to swim with the sharks.  The experience is in itself is an epitome in wildlife interaction.  For as long as the locals remember, whale sharks have convened around Ningaloo.  The assumption that whale sharks appear near Ningaloo in March because of the plankton bloom from coral spawning is again inconclusive for there is no plausible explanation on why they hang around long after the event.  There are bigger plankton blooms in other places with greater coral density and similarly, warm ocean currents must sweep by other shores.  There is nowhere else in the world are whale sharks found with comparable frequency, predictability and ease.

 Rating 7

How to get there:

Fly to Perth, WA and connect flight to Exmouth.

Coral Bay Adventures - http://www.users.bigpond.com/coralbay/

Ningaloo Blue - http://www.ningalooblue.com.au/

Exmouth Dive Centres - http://www.exmouthdiving.com.au/

  Be a Responsible Shark Diver

 If you plan to attend a shark feed, make sure the operator is professional, adhering to a few basic rules;   

1. Bait should be the shark natural diet, readily accessible, and should not be presented in such a way that it could harm them.

2. Live fish should never be speared in shark feeding ground;

3. You should be positioned at least 3 m up current away from the bait – you must not be down-current, because sharks are more likely to sample anything (including divers) inside the scent trail.

4. A good operator will brief you on type of sharks you are about to encounter, and will explain how to act during the dive. Follow the instructions carefully – do not deviate from the briefing; the sharks are often used to a particular routine and, if the pattern changes, they may become confused.

5. Never believe an operator who tells you that sharks are no more dangerous than a playful cat.

6. There are many advantages in shark diving with an organized expedition; you will be sharing the excitement and the experience with like-minded people, and an experienced tour leader that has done the trip before.

7. Share the experience – educated your diving and non diving friends of your encounter with sharks.

8. Make it a point to tell your family and friends to say no to shark fins – tell them of the wastage and cruelty related to the shark fin industry.